Fashion reviews

By William Jenkins, East Coast  Bureau Chief & Correspondent

Photo Credits: Getty Images

Published May 15, 2025, 2:31 p.m. ET

NEW YORK - Fashion Week, held from February 6th to February 11th, 2025, showcased a blend of established and emerging talent, navigating a somewhat subdued atmosphere due to a recent presidential election and a less crowded schedule. Despite this, several key trends and memorable moments emerged, highlighting the direction of American fashion for the upcoming colder seasons.

• Elevated Comfort and Wearability: A significant theme across collections was a focus on comfort without sacrificing style. Designers presented relaxed silhouettes and easy-to-wear pieces, emphasizing self-care through fashion. This translated into draped and comfortable suits and separates in neutral and pastel palettes, as seen in the collections of Derek Lam and Kallmeyer.
• Dramatic Outerwear: Statement coats, particularly in shearling and faux fur, made a strong impact. Voluminous silhouettes and luxurious textures were prominent, offering both warmth and high style. Capes also continued to be a notable outerwear trend, adding a dramatic flair to ensembles.
• The Return of the Skirt Suit: The midi skirt suit, reminiscent of the 1980s, was reimagined for the modern woman. Designers like Kallmeyer, Calvin Klein, and Tory Burch presented updated versions with clean lines, neutral tones, and a focus on understated elegance, often pairing midi pencil skirts with collarless jackets.
• Intriguing Layering: Designers showcased creative and unexpected layering techniques. This included pairing vibrant knitwear under structured tops, as seen at Ashlyn, and layering delicate blouses under short fur coats, as demonstrated by Altuzarra.
• Feminine Details: Lace and ruffles were prominent, adding a touch of romance and sheerness to various looks. Layered ruffles and lace-trimmed chiffon dresses were key elements, with even accessories like lace tights and gloves making a statement.
• Playful Textures and Prints: While comfort was key, designers also incorporated exciting textures like faux fur and unexpected prints, including animal patterns, to add visual interest to their collections.

NYFW continued to be a platform for showcasing new and exciting talent. Several emerging designers garnered attention for their unique perspectives and innovative designs:

• Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen: Known for limited-edition pieces crafted from found or deadstock fabric, Whalen made her official NYFW debut, presenting designs that blend pre-industrial silhouettes with a sustainable ethos.
• Diotima: Founded by Rachel Scott, this brand emphasizes Jamaican heritage and the intricate craftsmanship of Jamaican artisans, bringing a unique cultural perspective to the runway.
• Jane Wade: Bridging the gap between traditional workwear and modern attire, Wade's designs incorporate unexpected details and pragmatic elements like strategically placed snaps and zippers.
• Leblancstudios: This Dominican label, led by Angelo Beato and Yamil Arbaje, explores themes of work, power, and identity through their forward-thinking designs.
• Vettese: Kari Vettese's Los Angeles-based label focuses on luxury wardrobe staples with sustainable fabrics, form-fitting silhouettes, and draping techniques.
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• Thom Browne's Theatrical Finale: Thom Browne closed out NYFW with a dramatic, ornithology-themed show featuring exaggerated proportions, patchwork details, and plenty of plaid, leaving a lasting impression.
• Veronica Leoni's Debut at Calvin Klein Collection: The fashion world eagerly anticipated Veronica Leoni's first collection as the new creative director for Calvin Klein Collection. Her minimalist approach to updated skirt suits hinted at a sophisticated new direction for the iconic brand.
• Brandon Maxwell's Anniversary: Brandon Maxwell commemorated a decade in the business by showcasing everyday staples elevated with high style, from silk slips to leather sheaths.
• The Return of Familiar Favorites: Designers like Carolina Herrera (under Wes Gordon), Fforme, and Theory returned to the NYFW schedule, adding their established voices to the week's narrative.

Overall, New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025 presented a thoughtful collection of trends emphasizing both comfort and individual expression. While the atmosphere may have been more subdued than in previous seasons, the creativity and vision of both established and emerging designers shone through, offering a compelling glimpse into the future of fashion.

By Zineb Bouzenacha,  Managing Editor and Correspondent

Photo Credits: Getty Images

Published March 4, 2025, 2:27 p.m. ET

Milan Fashion Week for the Fall/Winter 2025-2026 season, which took place from February 25th to March 3rd, 2025, showcased a compelling vision for the colder months, marked by a blend of bold statements and a sophisticated understanding of texture and silhouette. While some major creative transitions within prominent houses added an element of anticipation, the collections themselves delivered a rich tapestry of trends, solidifying Milan's position as a powerhouse of global fashion.

One of the most notable overarching themes was a distinct move towards bolder and more expressive styles. This contrasted with previous seasons that leaned towards minimalism, signaling a desire for impactful dressing. Color played a significant role, with scarlet red emerging as a dominant hue, seen in striking head-to-toe looks at Ferragamo and Blumarine, injecting a powerful dose of confidence into winter wardrobes. Even within a generally darker autumnal palette, surprising pops of pastels appeared, offering a refreshing and unexpected twist on traditional cold-weather dressing.
Texture was another key element defining the Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collections. Fur, both real and faux, made a significant statement, with designers showcasing oversized coats and incorporating fuzzy trims to exude warmth and opulence. Leather, in its various forms, was also ubiquitous, appearing in sleek trenches, structured dresses, and edgy tops, proving its enduring versatility for the colder months. The interplay of textures was evident in many collections, with designers contrasting structured wool coats with diaphanous lace and layering faux mink over satin slip dresses, creating a sense of depth and visual interest.

Silhouette-wise, several key trends emerged. Leggings, the early-aughts staple, made a surprising comeback, styled in sleek ways with formal wear staples like tweed skirts, blazers, and fur coats at brands like Diesel, Jil Sander, and Gucci. This indicated a potential shift towards more streamlined bottom silhouettes. Simultaneously, oversized and cocoon-like outerwear remained important, offering both comfort and high style. Shoulders also played a role, with some designers featuring oversized shoulders in day dresses, adding a touch of dramatic structure.

Accessories were far from afterthoughts, often taking center stage. Exaggerated, oversized belts, particularly corset styles, were prominent at Bally and Giorgio Armani, cinching waists and adding a strong focal point to outfits. Gloves, in bold patterns and fabrications like lace, snakeskin, and colorful leather, also emerged as key accessories, adding personality and polish to winter looks. Statement necklaces, a continuing trend, further emphasized the focus on impactful embellishments.

Several designers presented collections that particularly embodied these trends. 

Gucci's Fall/Winter 2025 collection, created by the in-house design team following Sabato De Sarno's departure, was described as a blend of past, present, and future, with some observers noting a resemblance to Tom Ford's iconic era at the house. 

Fendi celebrated its 100th anniversary with a co-ed show that highlighted the brand's signature craftsmanship, featuring luxurious materials like shearling and power dressing silhouettes. 

Prada, known for its influential designs, continued to redefine femininity with its collection, incorporating delicate bows and contrasting them with more structured elements. 

Marni presented a more eccentric and personal collection, featuring shaggy knits and cocoon coats. 

Diesel, under Glenn Martens's direction, continued to push denim boundaries with rebellious and experimental treatments.

Overall, Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025-2026 demonstrated a dynamic interplay between established elegance and a desire for bold, individual expression. The emphasis on rich textures, impactful colors, and statement accessories painted a picture of a winter season that is both luxurious and daring.

By Zineb Bouzenacha,  Managing Editor and Correspondent

Photo Credits: Getty Images

February 10, 2025, 5:37 p.m. ET

Dubai Fashion Week (DFW), held from February 1st to 6th, 2025, once again solidified its position as a pivotal event on the global fashion calendar, showcasing the dynamic intersection of luxury, innovation, and diverse talent. Co-founded by the Dubai Design District (d3) and the Arab Fashion Council, the Autumn/Winter 2025/26 edition presented a compelling vision of the season ahead, attracting international buyers, media, influencers, and fashion enthusiasts to the heart of Dubai.

One of the defining characteristics of DFW was its ability to seamlessly blend established high-end luxury with the energy of contemporary streetwear. This season was no exception, featuring a spectrum of designers catering to varied tastes and aesthetics. The runways at Dubai Design District buzzed with collections that ranged from the opulent couture of Michael Cinco, a Dubai-based Filipino designer known for dressing the A-list, to the refined minimalism of Hellessy, showcased as part of THAT Concept Store's multi-designer presentation. This eclecticism highlights Dubai's unique position as a melting pot of cultures and styles, reflected in its fashion landscape.

A significant highlight of the week was the strong representation of both regional and international emerging designers. The "Next Gen" showcase by NIF Global London School of Trends provided a platform for promising new talents, emphasizing the importance of nurturing creativity and innovation within the industry. This commitment to supporting emerging designers through initiatives like the Buyers Programme underscores DFW's role in fostering the growth of the global fashion ecosystem.

The Autumn/Winter 2025/26 season also saw the debut of several noteworthy international brands, further amplifying Dubai's global appeal. Australian couture house Paolo Sebastian presented its ethereal gowns, adding a touch of romantic elegance to the week. Istanbul-based luxury streetwear brand Les Benjamins made its DFW debut as a "Correspondent Member," showcasing a collection that beautifully merged Western and Middle Eastern aesthetics. This influx of international talent alongside established regional powerhouses like Dima Ayad, known for her glamorous gowns, and the contemporary designs of Lama Jouni, enriched the diversity and dynamism of the event.

Sustainability and cultural storytelling emerged as prominent themes throughout the week. Indonesian designer Toton, presented by Makeover Indonesia, wove heritage Batik craftsmanship with sustainable innovation, utilizing upcycled textiles and unexpected materials. Molato, a brand celebrating Moroccan culture, championed eco-conscious fashion, highlighting a growing awareness and commitment to responsible practices within the region's fashion industry. SaiJamin's collection, "Adiyuh: Memories and Dreams," offered a poignant tribute to the designer's childhood and heritage, demonstrating the power of fashion to convey personal narratives and cultural identity.

The grand finale of Dubai Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025/26 was the highly anticipated closing show by Indian haute couture icon Manish Malhotra. Renowned for his intricate designs and significant influence on Bollywood fashion, Malhotra's presence underscored Dubai's growing stature as a global fashion hub capable of attracting and celebrating the industry's most prominent figures.

Beyond the runway shows, Dubai Fashion Week offered a comprehensive experience for attendees. Multi-designer showcases like the one curated by THAT Concept Store provided a platform for a diverse range of aesthetics, from the minimalist elegance of Khaite to the bold designs of Giuseppe di Morabito. Exclusive events at concept stores and boutiques further immersed fashion enthusiasts in the vibrant atmosphere of the week.

Altogether, Dubai Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025/26 was a resounding success. The highlights of this season not only presented compelling collections for the upcoming autumn and winter but also reinforced Dubai's commitment to becoming a truly world-renowned fashion epicenter. Moreover, by showcasing a diverse range of talent, fostering emerging designers, embracing global collaborations, and highlighting important themes like sustainability and cultural heritage, DFW continues to evolve as a crucial platform for innovation and creativity in the fashion world.